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Monday, November 29, 2010

A Breath of Fresh Air

Power corrupts..
and one does not need to elaborate on that..it's all around us!
Everyone with an iota of power abuses it.The people be damned!!
And then there is Mamata Bannerjee..a breath of fresh air.
Yes..the same fiesty fiery Mamata Bannerjee..our Minister for the Railways..who took on the might of the corporate world on behalf of the people. Yes..for people like you and me.
A People's Politician.
I had the privilege of a brief encounter with her..
I was waiting for my flight to Goa on the 22nd of november..and I noticed Didi (will call her that for brevity's sake) accompanied by her party MP. Dinesh Trivedi at the airport with no Black Cats or bodyguards..just a normal human being..like you and me.
Flight announced..Boarding time.
I was sitting..waiting for people to board..and to my pleasant surprise..there was Didi standing in the queue!! Waiting to board economy!! Or is it "Cattle Class" a la Mr. Tharoor?
I was overwhelmed by her attitude..and went up and asked if I could speak to her..I then thanked her for standing in the queue like any ordinary citizen of our country. She said she always stood in queue..and flew economy! Think she knew exactly what I was saying..that we are fed up of people in power abusing their position!!
I ended by saying that no politician stood in queue..and thanked her again for standing in the queue.
I was reading a fascinating new book by Ramachandra Guha..Makers of Modern India..and on an impulse..I gave the book to Didi as I entered the aircraft..and though surprised..she accepted it gracefully.
Short flight..boring food. Looking forward to chilling out in Goa..mmmmmm.
A few minutes before touchdown I notice Mr. Dinesh Trivedi coming down the aisle of the aircraft. He comes up to me and hands me a note from Didi..in which she thanks me for going up to talk to her and then thanks me further for the book.
Ms. Mamata Bannerjee..may your tribe grow.



Friday, July 9, 2010

A TREE FELL..

MARCH 2006 I shifted into my current home on Pali Hill in the beautiful suburb of  Bandra in Bombay.The apartment needed re-doing and so I decided to live here for a while and get a feel of the place before finalizing plans for what..hopefully.. is home for the rest of my life.
I finally decided on placing my dining cum work table at a big picture window that overlooked a forest..an urban jungle..but of the tree kind.
What a wise decision it turned out to be.
Bang opposite were three Copper Pod or Yellow Poinciana trees.In march..when in full bloom..I have a veritable bouquet of flowers..all my own.Yellow from the three Copper-Pods..pink is thrown in by a Cassias tree and red/orange by a Flame of the Forest.There lurks a Gul Mohr(Peacock flower tree)..a Frangipani..and other trees that i do not know the names of.
I have since photographed atleast 16 different species of birds..from the sleek Black Kite to the dramatic looking Asian Paradise Fly-catcher to the White Throated Kingfisher(don't know what he's doing here?!!) to the frolicsome noisy Red Ringed Parakeet.
Yes..it is a jungle out there!
Last week the centre tree..the one in closest proximity..fell.
Woke to an empty space..a void..where the day before had been this magnificent 50 foot tall tree..
Woke to a sense of loss..
This tree had been a teacher to me..opened up nature to me.
I had seen birds..some that I had not known existed..taking shelter in it's shady branches.
Had watched and photographed the mating rituals of the Black Kite.
Had seen Purple-rumped Sunbirds drink pollen from the yellow flowers.
Had started recognizing bird calls..The whistles of the Koel..the tuk tuk call of the Coppersmith Barbet..the strange sounding call of the Coucal..and the mating trill of the female Black Kite.
Had watched a Lizard climb to the flowers in the topmost branches to catch flying insects that came to drink from the flowers.
Had learnt how smart nature is..and how worthy of awe!

"In some mysterious way woods have never seemed to me to be static things. In physical terms, I move through them; yet in metaphysical ones, they seem to move through me." ~John Fowles








Tuesday, July 6, 2010

All Hail the Indian Diaspora



In the 60s Ravi Shankar..along with the Beatles..took the Sitar and Indian classical music to the world.
That was soon followed by Yoga and Meditation..a Spiritual Awakening by a disillusioned West.
Then came Indian cuisine.A friend..Porus..immigrated to Sydney in the 80s..the Indian restaurants could be counted on your fingertips!! Now there are over 200!!
In England..Butter Chicken is now their national dish (wonder what happened to steak and kidney pie?).From Veeraswamy's to the hole-in-the-wall take-away kebab joint..Indian cuisine rules!!
Now comes Bollywood (hate the name..prefer the Indian film industry)..but Bollywood it shall be.
Jai ho from Slumdog Millionaire..and the Academy Awards set the trend.
There was a pair who did a Bollywood routine for their dance section at the Winter Olympics ice skating competition.
A Bollywood routine was choreographed for the 1st time during this season's "So you think you can dance".
And now..it's in their homes and weddings too!!
Love it.. :-)

SIGN O' THE TIMES

I was told by a nephew that I should have a photograph of a renovated Taj Mahal hotel as the masthead..a sort of 'risen from the ashes Phoenix'..to symbolise the spirit and tenacity of Bombay.
I share his sentiments but choose to retain this photograph.
We all know that Bombay has this amazing capacity to deal with calamities..natural or man-made. Floods..riots..epidemics..bomb blasts..have all been taken in it's stride.
Life does tend to go on....
The attack on Bombay on 26/11 stirred the consciousness of Bombay as no other event!
For the 1st time this was not a faceless attack on Bombay..but an attack carried out by flesh and blood characters.
There was a Face..an identifiable Face..a recognizable Face..that had treated us so mercilessly! Had killed and injured so ruthlessly!!
Bombay had been raped by gun toting Terrorists!!
This was a moment to come together in solidarity..and the people did.
This was a moment for politicians to leave their petty politics behind..they didn't!!
This is why I choose to retain this image of a wounded Taj Mahal hotel..as a reminder that not much has changed!!

Sunday, July 4, 2010

NIGHT LIGHTS


Reproducing an article that was sent to me by an old friend..Jehangoo Chowna.
Not just a nostalgic trip down memory lane..but this was an era that contributed and added layers to the making of Bombay.
This was my school..college..and university!
And I am forever grateful..
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Bombay & The Swinging Sixties
STANLEY PINTO, old Bombay boy and night club pianist, describes the rocking times that the city was witness to in the 1960s.

A man called Chris Perry died in Mumbai a few weeks ago. The news didn't send even the tiniest ripple out onto the turgid waters of this restless megalopolis. In its headlong rush into tomorrow, Mumbai has become a city uncaring of the yesterdays from which its today is cast; constantly moulting, constantly and unconcernedly shedding memories of times past.
Chris Perry is one such forgotten memory of the great jazz age of Mumbai that once was Bombay. Alongside Hecke Kingdom and Norman Mobsby and Tony Pinto and Neville Thomas and Seby Dias and Sweet Lorraine and Wendy and... but I'm getting ahead of my story about the long-ago-and-far-away nightlife of Bombay. A scene of a hundred (or so it seemed) jazz dives and cabarets that made Bombay the centre of India's entertainment world in the 60s, 70s and 80s.
I discovered this exciting world as a 16-year-old in 1959 when I ran into Dorothy Jones on Colaba Causeway. Dorothy was the pianist who accompanied all comers on the late great impressario Hamid Sayani's Ovaltine Amateur Hour over Radio Ceylon, the FM radio of its time. Teetering on impossible stiletto heels, her red hair crowned by a magnificent tres chic turban, she enveloped me in a deliciously bosomy hug. Hello luv, how lovely to see you, do you still sing, how is your piano playing, you must come and see us at Berry's, come to the jam session next Sunday morning. And she was gone in a cloudburst of Channel No. 5.
Sunday morning couldn't come around soon enough. When it did, I ducked my sainted mother after church, dashed off to the nearby railway station, and ten minutes later there I was at Berry's little restaurant, just past the Tea Centre on Churchgate Street. The band was already swinging: Dorothy at the piano was the Marian McPartland of Bombay's jazz. Her son Robin on drums, the elegant Percy Borthwick on bass and behind the largest dark glasses I'd ever seen, Dennis Rosario, a magnificent guitarist in the Barney Kessel style. A reed of a man, Georgie Rich, who later became a good friend, was doing a Mel Torme on Sweet Georgia Brown.
The joint, to use Cab Calloway's signature phrase, was jumping, and in ten minutes it changed my take on life in the fast line. I'd discovered the magical, mesmerising, unashamedly decadent and just slightly seedy world of life and dark.
At the far end of Churchgate Street, just across from today's Jazz by the Bay (which didn't exist then) was the bistro Napoli. No live band but with Bombay's first and only juke box, very popular with the college set.
Almost next door was The Ambassador hotel, lair of Jack Voyantzis, it's Greek owner, a beautiful woman always on his arm, a giant Havana ever between his teeth. The restaurant at the hotel was called The Other Room and India's most reputed jazz agglomeration. The Tony Pinto Quartet, was in residence. Tony Pinto was a short, bald martinet of a man who drilled his band to perfection in polished, if somewhat pre-meditated, jazz arrangements. The quartet was fronted by Norman Mobsby on tenor saxophone, as aggressive as Coleman Hawkins, as gentle as Ben Webster.
The Other Room was where the well-heeled went to dinner. Every night was black tie night, and you were Social Register if Jack knew your first name and your wife well enough to kiss her gently on the mouth. The wives seldom resisted, I might add.
Fifty yards down was Bombelli's, Swiss Freddi's eponymous restaurant. Advertising men gathered in its al fresco forecourt each evening, sipping the only genuine (or so Freddie said) cappuccinos in town, made from a shiny, hissing coffee machine. A trio played at nights. It was all very Continental.
Right next door, over a fence so low you conveniently held conversations and exchanged criossants for pakodas across it, was Berry's. As Indian as it's neighbour wasn't. The Tandoori Butter Chicken to die for. And the Dorothy Jones Quartet with Marguerite at the mike, as the advertising said. A few years later, after Dorothy and all of her band had emigrated to the UK, I led my own trio there.
Across Berry 's was the original Gaylord restaurant. The band was led by Ken Cumine, India's only jazz violinist, replete with soft suits of pure cashmere, a shiny white violin and radiant daughter Sweet Lorraine at the microphone.
Around the corner, just across from the Eros cinema, was the Astoria hotel with its famous Venice restaurant. Famous because this was the jazz musicians' jazz hideout. For years, the diminutive trumpeter Chris Perry led his quintet there. There was the incomparable Felix Torcato on piano; years later he moved to Calcutta, first leading a wonderful quarter and later a big band at the Oberoi Grand, with his spectacular wife Diane as partner and singer.
On tenor saxophone with Chris was his brother Paul, a happy laughing buddha of a man. And out in front was Molly, a singer in the Sarah Vaughn mould, one of the best we've ever seen in the country.
Some years later, the Astoria opened a second restaurant. They called it Skyline and it opened with a young alto saxophonist who was continued over the next three decades to dominate the Indian jazz scene. The man was Braz Gonsalves and what a heart-stopping quartet it was. Xavier Fernandes, the most cerebral pianist of his time, Leslie Godinho, the 'dada' of the Hindi film percussionists on drums and... dashed if I can recall the bassist. I think perhaps it was Dinshaw 'Balsi' Balsara, advertising art director and clothes horse who later went on to become one of Asia's most successful commercial photographers in Hong Kong.
When Chris Perry moved on to Calcutta, Braz shifted to the Venice . The quartet grew into a quintet with the addition of a tenor saxophonist. Leslie made way for Wency, the most dynamic young drummer of his era, and Bombay rocked to the Cannonball Adderley sound. For almost a decade Venice was the meeting place for jazz men from all over the country and indeed the world. Dave Brubeck visited and sat in, regal if a little incongruous in his particular jazz genre. Duke Ellington came two nights in a row after he discovered half his orchestra moonlighting with Braz and the gang. Venice was the Blue Note of India's swingingest jazz scene and would we miss a single evening of it? Perish the thought.
Across the road at the Ritz hotel was The Little Hut. Neville Thomas, one of the most dashing men around town, led a group called Three Guys and a Doll. The luscious Shirley Myers was the doll. (Thirty years later I met Shirley one evening at Jazz at the Bay and she's still a doll!) Later, when Molly returned from Calcutta to marry her piano player sweetheart Mervyn, they took over at The Little Hut for many years.
From that spot, it was a brisk walk past Flora Fountain, where, plumb opposite Akbarally's, were Bistro and Volga, the two most popular haunts of the younger set. Seby Dias held court at Bistro, with my school friend Johnny at the piano and a hugely talented young lady called Ursula at the mike. She was the daughter of one of India's best known orchestra leaders of the big band era. Chic Chocolate, as unprepossessing as Chic was dashing, and just as gifted. At Volga next door Hecke Kingdom 's Quartet held sway. Hecke was India's only baritone sax man, a grandfatherly man, gentle and wise. In delightful contrast, the trio that backed him was more mischief than a tribe of monkeys. Richie Marquis on piano, Percy on bass and Maxie on drums. But what an unbelievable prolific trio it was. There probably hasn't been another like it since.
Off the beaten track at Kala Ghoda, around the corner from Khyber restaurant, suddenly, from nowhere, a restaurant called La Bella opened in 1961. And it opened with a British sextet called the Margaret Mason band, with Margie Mason herself on an enthralling instrument we had never seen before: the vibraharp. As college kids, we swiftly became habitues of the 11.00 a.m. coffee session. All it took was 75p for the Espresso, not to mention the continuous acts of petty larceny to find that princely sum six days a week.
Finally, across from the Yacht Club at Dhanraj Mahal, there was the Alibaba where now stands a Chinese restaurant. George Fernandes on piano, Cassie on bass and Louis Armstrong vocals. Wilfred on drums.
In time, riding the crest of the jazz juggernaut, these niteries were joined by clubs at the Taj Mahal hotel, the Oberoi, the Nataraj on Marine Drive, the Shalimar at Kemp's Corner, the Sundowner at the Sun'n'Sand, and restaurants like the Blue Nile at New Marine Lines, the Talk of the Town on Marine Drive and the second Bombelli's at Worli.
With them came new young stars. Iqbal Singh, the turbaned Navy ensign doing his frantic Elvis Presly thing. Bonnie Remedios, India's Fats Domino. Sunder the Gay Caballero. Not quite jazz but what the hell.
And there was this callow, beardless fellow, barely out of short pants, who sat in on five minutes' notice for pianists all over town when they called in sick. Tony Pinto gave him lessons in jazz progressions so he'd stop inventing 'Chinese' chords of his own. Hecke Kingdom advised him to think long and hard about wanting to make this life a profession, not for someone who has a subscription to TIME magzine, he'd say, only half jokingly. And the cabaret girls were inordinately protective of him because he accompanied them on the piano impeccably, not asking for 'anything' in return. Then, when he inevitably did, they'd grown to like him enough to gleefully acquiesce. Life was grand.
Till one day it was gone. Suddenly, unexpectedly. Sadly. And much, much before it changed its name, Bombay metamorphosed into Mumbai.
We were left with a handful of memories. Now they too have faded.


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Around the mid-sixties the first of the Rock Bands appeared..more on that later!!
BW










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Monday, June 28, 2010

NEVER SURPRISED


Bombay..Bombay..with the kind of history you have been witness to, one is never surprised.
There must be many more tunnels and rooms lying still undiscovered..what with the number of forts..and fortifications!!
Worli fort..Bandra fort..Mahim fort..Sion fort (am curious how the area got the name Sion..connected to the Diaspora?!!).. and many probably which I don't know about!!
And of course the Fort area..the Fort St. George..with it's Rampart Row..it's Churchgate ( literally the gate of the fort that was the entrance to St. Thomas's church)..the Lion's gate (the entrance from the docks)..and Bazaar street. A whole cosmopolitan city contained within the Fort's walls.
And of course the Infamous Majestic Hotel with it's notice.."Dogs and Indians not allowed"..that inspired Mr.Jamshedji Tata to build the iconic Taj Mahal hotel in response to the discrimination..a hotel that surpassed any hotel of that time..and still does!!
Yes..Bombay never surprises me!!

Ps. 40 plus years ago.. I had the privilige of watching peacocks frolicking under the Tower of Silence.Yes..in the heart of Bombay..at Kemp's Corner!!
Pps. I had a piece of land in Saaral village across the harbour from the Gateway of India..and clearly marked on survey maps..and for us to see..adjoining the land was a small Jewish Cemetery!!
Diaspora?
Bombay..you never surprise me!!

Tuesday, June 15, 2010

The Cycle of Life..the Rains.

Don't know why..but this year I wanted to be in Bombay when the rains came. Looked forward to it with almost an obsession.
Maybe it was the heat..what with global warming..was at 36/37 (unheard of ) through most of the summer!!
Maybe just needed a cleansing of the soul..and getting wet in the rain does tend to do that.
Aaaaah..the rains arouse the senses.
The smell of the earth after the 1st rain..a sensuous earthy smell..the musk of a woman.
Trees dancing in the wind..a sinuous dance to the music of rustling leaves and the rhythm of falling rain. Tak dina dhin..dina dhin..tak dina dhin..or..Dum dum deegha deegha. Take your pick!
Leaves hanging heavy with drops of rainwater..reflecting the soul of the city.
The Koel..sings beyond sunset..
The sea..rears like a Stallion..unbridled..untamed!!
Roasted bhuta on a promenade..sea spray on your face.
And the parting..such sweet sorrow..end of Alphonso mangoes.
The Gul Mohar..that blossomed not too long ago with it's fiery flowers..now rendered colourless by the force of the rain..the orange/red flowers cushioning your walk.
The Black Kite that has left it's nest..along with it's young one.
They shall return.
The Cycle of life moves on..

Saturday, June 12, 2010

SOS..Sold Our Souls!!

SOS..has always stood for Save Our Souls..an internationally recognized call for help by people in any kind of distress.
Any person hearing this call would make the saving of the person in distress his no.1 priority.
Our government has given it a new interpretation..SOLD OUR SOULS!!
Shameful but true!!
20000 dead..over 300000 affected by the biggest industrial accident at the Union Carbide plant in Bhopal.
And......
The govt. had made saving of the company and the ceo of Union Carbide and the subsequent owner of Union Carbide..Dow Chemicals..their 1st priority!!
The govt. has assured Dow Chemicals that they would not be responsible for cleaning up the site that is still leaching poisons into the soil and the water table!!
Who is going to do it?!!
A rough estimate is that it is going to cost over a 1000 crores!!
Whose money.. Yours and mine?!!
I think the only thing of dignity left to the dead victims of Bhopal were their souls..
and the Government has sold that too!!
SOS..SOLD OUR SOULS!!

Tuesday, June 8, 2010

Bombay..my Bombay.

I am a Bombaywallah..born when my city was known the world over as Bombay ( it still is..to some!)
Bombay of the song.."Come fly with me".. immortalised in the words.."if you can use some exotic booze there's a bar in far Bombay" sung by "Old Blue Eyes" Frank Sinatra himself and other greats.
Bombay..of the internationally famous "Bombay" gin.
Of a bar in New Jersey called the Bombay Bar.
And of course..the ever popular Johnny Walker song..Yeh hai Bombay meri jaan.
A city that was cosmopolitan in it's ways and tolerant in it's attitude..a vibrant city that never slept (still doesn't).
Jazz bars abounded..restaurants aplenty. Strip shows..if that was your flavour!
No silly self-serving immoral moral-policeman telling us how to live our lives!!
A safe fun loving city that let you do your own thing.
Mumbai..sorry..it just ain't the same.